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Decide where your door goes (ideally in a mono clad and trim deck cladding profile).
The architrave of the door sits on the flat into the valley of the cladding profile. If not, you risk the door not being installed squarely.
Ensure the cut is in an area that has no structural steel behind it, safely cut cladding to recommended opening size and install door jamb mullions.
Note: When cutting opening make the horizontal cut at the top approx. 50mm wider on both sides than the vertical cut. (see Fig. 6) This will allow the top architrave to slide behind the shed cladding.
As above, make sure top architrave slides behind the shed cladding. Once the door is in place (minimum of 10-gauge screws) put one screw in at the top hinge. At this point get the hinge side of the door square/plumb then insert a screw at the bottom hinge and another at lock height (be sure that
the door has not moved during this action). Get all gaps even so the whole door is square/plumb, then screw the lock side to match. Continue to screw off the hinge side of the door until complete (see Fig. 3).
Note: Door packers must not be removed until door jamb is fully fastened off.
When screwing off the latch side of the door, again check to make sure the jamb is still square/plumb. The door can drop under its own weight at this point, so if it is not square/plumb it can result in the door not shutting properly and catching.
Once this is finished, we recommend completing the fixing process on the other side.
Once the door is installed, remove packers and protective covering from door.
Note: 19 screws are the minimum required, however we recommend fixing on the back. If more screws are used these 19 are still required at these points level with hinges and lock.
Optional: Slide j-mould up under cladding and fix with minimum of 4 screws. J-moulds work better when slightly lower at hinge side, directing away from user
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